Tijdens onze vorige reis naar Thailand dineerden we bij Sorn (**). Deze reis wilden we opnieuw de Thaise topkeuken ontdekken, maar dan bij een ander bekroond restaurant. Daarom kozen we voor R-Haan (**) in Bangkok, waar we samen met vrienden genoten van een avond vol verfijning en culinaire traditie.
Warm welcome and elegant interior
Upon arrival, we are warmly received by a large brigade. In the lounge, we are given a refreshing towel while our reservation is checked. We are then immediately escorted to our table.
The interior feels luxurious: a mix of classic and modern, with large round tables dressed in crisp white linen. The menus are already placed on the table, listing all dishes from amuse to friandises — a sign of a carefully orchestrated evening ahead.
Amuse-Bouches: A Culinary Journey Through Thailand
We start with five amuse-bouches, each inspired by a different region of Thailand and presented on a map.
1. Northern Thailand
Crispy fried noodles filled with minced pork. Lightly spicy, crunchy, and a perfect opener.
2. Blue Fish Satay
A small roll of fish served with a fresh green sauce.
3. Wagyu beef
Grilled, perfectly cooked and served with a sweet-spicy sauce. One of the highlights of the evening.
4. Pattaya – Lobster Dumpling
Steamed, subtly flavored, with a small chili pepper that the staff warns you about — but which makes the amuse absolutely fantastic.
5. Phuket – Crab Curry
A creamy, flavorful curry-filled bite with rich aromas.
An excellent and highly varied start to the menu.
Menu
Shrimp from Phuket on avocado mousse with lime, lemongrass, and a subtle hint of chili. The shrimp is slightly lukewarm, but the flavor combination is spot on.
Wine: Rheingau Riesling Terra Montosa – fresh, slightly acidic, apple notes; a perfect match.
The second dish: Cauliflower mousse topped with caviar, served alongside a spicy and refreshing Gaeng Som soup. A beautiful combination of soft, salty, and spicy.
Wine: Gewürztraminer Imperial (Heim) – rose aroma, gentle sweetness, pairs wonderfully.
A small palate cleanser of watermelon balls follows to cool the mouth after the spiciness of the soup.
A large grilled frog leg on a salad of peanuts and herbs. Perfectly cooked; the meat falls easily from the bone. The salad is nutty, fresh, and slightly spicy.
Wijn: Riesling Clos Mathis 2022 – an excellent pairing.
Sous-vide cooked duck egg served with a sweet brown sauce and sponge cake. A traditional Thai dish, but in terms of taste and texture less convincing — everything is very soft.
Wijn: Les Perrières – Château Lafleur (Fronsac) – beautiful Bordeaux that complements the dish nicely.
To further neutralize the taste buds, we’re now served a sorbet made from khao mak. This is normally a sticky rice dish, but this time it’s a sorbet made from it. A nice bite, wonderfully neutral.
Main Course – Three Thai Classics with Jasmine Rice
The dishes all come to the table at the same time, so you can eat them at the same time.
1. Green Curry with Chicken and Bamboo Shoots
The curry is outstanding: rich, perfectly spiced, and full of depth. The chicken, however, is on the dry side and not at star level.
2. Cold Crab with Thai Herbs
Fresh, aromatic, and nicely textured. A very pleasant dish.
3. Tom Yum with River Prawns
Large prawns are served in a bowl and topped tableside with Tom Yum poured from a percolator. Spicy, aromatic, and full of flavor.
Wine: Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru La Toppe au Vert – surprisingly good with Thai flavors; the sommelier generously topped up our glasses throughout the evening. We were surprised that this red wine goes so well with the spicy dishes.
Dessert: Mango Sticky Rice at Michelin Level
The classic Thai dessert, elevated:
- a white chocolate egg with mango filled with mango sorbet and mango pieces
- white rice with mango on top
- extra ice cream next to the dish
An elegant, flavorful and perfectly executed dessert.
Wijn: Carmes de Rieussec (Sauternes) – a perfect pairing.
We end with friandises, including a canelé made with young rice milk and a Thai fruit salad bonbon.
Service & Overall Experience
The service is friendly, attentive, and highly professional. A small downside: some staff members speak very softly or with an accent that is hard to understand. We also noticed a bit of spilling when soups were poured — small details, but noticeable at this level.
Despite that, we had a fantastic evening. The menu is refined, culturally rich, and beautifully presented. Apart from a few minor points (especially the dry chicken), the overall level is excellent.
For those who want to experience authentic Thai cuisine at Michelin-star level, R-Haan is a restaurant you shouldn’t miss. The diversity of flavors, the high level of cooking, and the extensive wine pairings make it a truly special culinary experience. It’s highly recommended.
